"This is a small hotel – just 11 rooms. Ours was (oddly!) room no. 39, which is on the ground floor and has a very large balcony to the side, which unfortunately, really doesn't get any sun. Note, there is no lift and there are steps already down to the hotel itself. It was kitted out for self catering (although the hotel is B&B of which more later), with a small selection of crockery, cutlery, kettle, 2-burner hob and crucially a fridge with a small freezer section. I believe all the rooms have fridge and kettle, so remember to bring your tea bags! Speaking of kettle, a note on the water, it’s not really drinkable, as it’s desalinated and still a little salty tasting. It won’t harm you, but it just doesn’t taste very nice. Fine for cooking. Buy bottled water at the mini-market 50m down the road at E2.50 for a six-pack of big bottles. Beer is E4 a large tin for Mythos or Alfa. As there is no bar in the hotel, they are cool about bringing in your own booze and snacks, although you can also use the pool bar in the next door small hotel (Kafouros). The bathroom was relatively new and the shower was really good. Buffet breakfast had everything you could possibly want with cold cuts, cereal, pastries etc. and a rotating hot selection including bacon, eggs etc. The pool may be modest, but is fine for a dip when sunbathing. There was never any competition for sunbeds. Your host, Maria, will be there to welcome you when you arrive and is usually at reception morning and early evening. She is incredible helpful and is happy to help with any enquiries. I should however, mention the plane spotting – it’s very close to the airport and on the glide-path for planes coming into land. But it was more fun spotting the planes, than actually disturbing.
The hotel is also only a stagger (less than 100m) from the sea, and at the north end of a long strip of restaurants on one side and ‘tied’ sunbeds on the beach. Generally, they – 2 beds and a parasol, often including wifi - are ‘free’ if you spend at least E30 at the relevant restaurant. To get cheaper sunbeds, go all the way to the south end of the strip where they are E15 and there’s also space to just put down your towels on the ‘sand’. There’s also a bar on the beach here where beer is just E4.50 – most other places it’s at least E6 and more if there’s a good view involved. This is also where you can get the water taxi to the next resort along, Perissa (E8 each way, cash only). Perissa actually has (a small amount of) the fine black sand that I’d hoped to find on all the beaches – in Kamari, it’s gravelly to pebbly. Also the north end of Kamari beach has flat algae-covered rocks just beyond the waterline, which are lethally slippy, so stick to the southern half. But swim shoes are vital wherever, as the sand can get really hot!
Our favourite restaurant on the Kamari ‘strip’ was Almira, which is one of the closest to the hotel – only Lolos, which is not bad, is closer. Although we didn’t visit, I’m told the bakery (Erotokritos) was amazing.
While you are in Kamari, I’d recommend walking up the zig-zag road (you will know it when you see it) to Ancient Thira. It takes about 1 hour leisurely walk from the bottom and about 20 min from the hotel. The top is incredibly windly and there’s just a small snackbar hut there, but persevere – pay the E10 to access the Ancient Thira site – there’s some quite scary scrambly bits at the start – no barriers to a very steep drop, but once you’re past that, the views are fabulous and the ruins quite good too.
If you want to venture further afield, buses leave regularly from the central bus stop in Kamari (we’re not convinced that they stop at any of the other supposed stops in the town). All buses go to Fira, the capital and you have to change to go on elsewhere. Fares are mostly E2.50, cash only – find a seat and there’s a conductor who comes around to collect. The bus station in Fira is a model of organised chaos and we were in awe of the drivers’ skill backing in. When in Fira, walk along the seaward side. The Museum of Prehistoric Thira, which is where the frescoes are. If you’re up for a stroll, keep on walking north and pop into the villages of Fira-Stefani and Imerovigli for more fantastic views. We also went to Akrotiri – a large archaeological site – E20 entrance. This is where all the famous murals come from, but they’ve all been removed, so a little underwhelming. It is all undercover, so you won’t die in the heat! If going to Akrotiri, get a beer and a focaccia sandwich from the taverna near where the bus turns. We also went to Pyrgos, a ‘typical village’ at the top of a hill – fab views, cobbled lanes, churches and expensive bars; and to Oia (pronounced Eee-ya) for the sunset – it had to be done, but was packed. Recommend you bag a seat early in a bar/restaurant with a good view (‘Santorini Sunsets’ was good) and stay there – however, this can an expensive option, but saves the crush. Also, avoid the crush to get the bus back, although don’t be alarmed by the queues, they run every five minutes or so just after sunset, and have beer and dinner at ‘The Summer Habit’ by the bus station – excellent and not pricey and great service.
Last words (and sorry to have rambled on so long!)
• Cash is king – but there are plenty of ATMs
• This is not a place for you if you are not steady on your feet – to get the full benefit, you need to do quite a lot of walking, often on rough cobbles etc."
